Cordoba and Sevilla

22, 23 de mayo cordoba to sevilla

I am going to backtrack here…
I am in Seville now. Staying at my second couch surf here with a musician named Antonio. I don’t think I could be more fortunate. Empezo el duende. I feel like I have officially arrived in Spain mentally and spiritually. Last night I stayed at a very nice hostel a block from the cathedral, “El Picasso”. I met some really nice Italianos and they told me about “La Carboneria” where they play Flamenco for the tourists. When I spoke to Antonio on the phone, he told me he would be singing there before the Flamenco show, so I thought how perfect, I will meet my host in Sevilla and then see the show…I arrived with Fedele and Claudio and there was Antonio, singing. What a voice, wow. He smiled at me (as he recognized me from the photos on couchsurfing) as we walked through to see the flamenco show in the back room. I instantly liked him. In the crowded back room, we watched Rocio (the dancer) and a singer and guitarist perform…she had to keep silencing the crowd who obviously didn’t understand Flamenco…The word I have for this woman’s dancing is *Vicious*. She attacked the crowd with her footwork and at the end of every marcando she stayed in pose and slowly dropped her arms to her side as she gazed fiercely beyond the audience. I was right up front so I absorbed the power they projected very intensely. My skin was chilled to the bone and my ears cracking with palmadas (clapping compas), marcando of her footwork, and mournful singing from el cantante…

The Italiano Federe and I walked all over town until 3 a.m.…he taught me some Italian (which I repeated poorly as he shook his head at me) and he practiced his English. I taught him phrases like “I wouldn’t want to meet her in a dark alley” and “holy shit” (which apparently I say often). We formed a pretty great friendship in this time and continuously laughed and teased each other. The concept that has struck me deeply already about Sevilla is the musical atmosphere here; the sounds of both the constant church bells and the hoofs of the horses on the cobblestones. For example, I was clapping a basic compas rhythm for fede and I noticed the horses walk got synchronized with my clapping and it was a moment of “ah ha” - these rhythms come from things around us and flamenco felt like less of a mystery for a moment there…It has completely taken me and I havn’t felt this connection with a new culture/music since my first trip to Cuba. You know when something gets in deeply to your soul because these aren’t everyday experiences, but they are lasting for sure, as they take you on a certain undeniable and irresistible course.

So here I am in Sevilla at the casa de Antonio. We just had a drinks and tapas and talked about life, careers in the arts, the flamenco culture and authenticity, etc and I feel so completely at home, like we recognize each other rather instantly. He is warm and beautiful, and a deep thinker.

Let me backtrack to Cordoba which was my first Andalucian experience and my first couchsurf here. I arrived in the train station and walked down to the Plaza de Correderas. This was the main plaza for Roman social gatherings back in the day and there were many mosaics that were excavated from here. These mosaics were mostly representations of the mythology, i.e. stories about Medusa, Psyche, etc…and they are on display in the Alcazar, the home of the Christian Kings, where the Inquisition had its’ home and where they planned the attack on Granada. This fortress also housed Isabella and Ferdinand who were the head haunchos in the Inquisition to convert all the Arabs to Catholicism. They sent Christopher Columbus out on the famous voyage of 1492 that we all know so much about. Go get that GOLD! (Which adorned every corner of the Cathedral). The Mezquita (Mosque) is the biggest monument here and why tourists come to visit. It has been a Roman temple, a Visigothic Church, a Mosque during the 800 year occupation of the Moorish rulers when it was known as Al-Andalus, and it has been embellished by Catholic Cathedral architecture including the rococo style and gothic style. It’s the Heinz 47 of religious buildings…240,000 square feet. It pretty much takes your breath away. Then there is the Jewish neighborhood which has whitewashed buildings surrounding narrow winding alleys and filled with beautiful flowers and patios. It’s quite dreamy. I met Rafael (the patron saint of Cordoba) while I was doing weird self portraits on my camera under the Roman bridge. He actually ended up in the background of the photos b/c he was up on the bridge watching this strange tourist take pictures. He came down to meet me out of curiosity and we spent some time walking around the city. He had just returned from India where he studied Tabla. I am a big musician magnet, lucky me! So, I had to run and meet my lovely hosts, Brittany and Alvaro for tapas and beer so we parted ways. It is so easy to meet people here. People are very gregarious and cordial. I had a great time with Brittany, who I adored, and she was quite helpful and I had my own room! It was a most delightful start to my Andalucian adventure.

The biggest challenge so far has been the “break in” period. This is the letting go of ties to home (oliver especially), learning a new language, reorienting oneself to a new manner of how things are done both culturally (i.e. when to eat, how to greet) and systematically (i.e. catching a train, using the phone), and lastly getting used to living out of a bag and in a new place every night or so. I feel like this period has now ended for me and I have settled into the travel/adventure spirit. Ah yes, I made it across. Now I can really enjoy on a deeper level. This is why I am here, after all.

24 (Sunday) Mayo
Last night was a true cultural experience. I went with Antonio to his gig in Carmona, a pueblo just outside of Sevilla. The group was playing what he called “Flamenco pop”, which is the more upbeat, less mournful variety (i.e. Sevillanas , Rumbas). The trip theret reminded me of a part in the movie Latcho Drom where they drive all over to individually pick up all the musicians for the gypsy band. There were 4 gitanos sevillnos and 3 puro sevillanos. The way you could tell the gypsies apart from the others was by their fancy jewelry, slick shoes, their interest in the culos of the girlies. But mostly, by "el duende"...the damn good music. As soon as we reached Carmona we just asked people on the street where it was and then the search began….We arrive, they set up and the music gets started really by about 1. Amazing, fantastic…I couldn’t stop smiling and I was having a hard time sitting. The locals danced only to Sevillanas in couples, which was cool to watch. Most people smoked drank and clapped the compas. I finally got up for some rumbas and pretty much did Flamenco Salsa. Dranks a lot of red wine and we got back to the casa around 5 am. This was my favorite night so far b/c I am here for the music. I am realizing that just sight-seeing is pretty hard for me. I am in awe of the beauty, history, culture, etc but really I just want to be dancing…I am going to have to arrange a class soon. Today we ran out of Antonios casa to see a actuacion on the street, a procession of Christ on the cross with the burning incense, thefancy outfits, and full band. It is a spectacle and it gave me a taste of what Semana Santa is like here in April. For an entire week there are 8-10 processions a day of ancient figures from the churches held up on a platform by 20 men and surrounded by musicians, clergy, and an entire cast of ceremonial figures. The traditions here are so rich and everyone is part of the culture citywide. The mood is pretty serious and profound and all the symbols come to life during these rituals. Pretty cool stuff really. Antonio gave me a brief education on the subject and then I came back to see more history today. Also we had tapas in his barrio, San Vicente , near the Alameda de Hercules and Jesus del Gran Poder, and I now have a new favorite tapa, paella. This neighborhood felt the most authentic Sevilla, as there were few tourists and the locals were all out watching the circus, doing church activities and having big Sunday meals and paseos around the neighborhood. Antonio went to see his family and I walked around the public parks here which are complete with fountains, pools, terraces, and playgrounds. I spent a few hours in the Alcazar here which is a palace unlike anything I have ever seen….Immense (the photos can tell the story). I sat down and realized I have only been in Spain for 1 week…A very full week. I havn’t yet had an 8 hour sleep, and I am getting really skinny from walking everywhere and not eating enough. I have been absorbing vast amounts of information and I feel totally saturated by discovery and knowledge. Right now I am sitting in a shady park watching all the activity ….Ok, off to meet Antonio..
Monday 25 de mayo
So last night Antonio met me down in the center and we weaved around the Juderia (Jewish quarter)…officially the skinniest alleys I have ever seen…Very cool with old roman columns jutting out of nowhere and the ancient stone wheels for carts were placed right into the masonry on the walls…you could feel the age here. Every corner told a million stories. We saw another procession and I got some good video. We went to the roof of a hotel and looked at the view of the city. The ceramic tiles on the roofs were so colored with age, but were so well preserved. Buildings were made to last back in the day. We ate at a really cool place which was bullfight themed, complete with all the brand symbols of the competitors displayed in tiles, photos on the wall of famous bullfighters, and pig legs hanging on hooks over the bar. This was one of my favorite meals…A salad with chicken, pineapple ,kiwi, carrots, corn, and a sweet catalan-style dressing and “Gambas al Ajo” (small shrimp marinated in garlic and oil). I learned that when you dip bread in this oil it is called una barquito (little boat b/c it’s floating in the oil). Antonio told me some jokes b/c I’m trying to learn some Spanish jokes, but they aren’t sticking and I have yet to really “get” the humor…but I will keep trying (I did like the Jesus last supper joke….ask me and I’ll see what I can remember. Hint: sera yo?) We were both tired and decided to turn in early and I watched a Christopher Colombus documentary before falling deeply asleep. AND the best part EVER is that I woke up after dreaming in Spanish!! This is how you know the language is really taking root. Right now I am in the Train Station waiting for my train to Cadiz. I had the best possible stay in Sevilla and became very fond of Antonio…it felt like being with a very old longtime friend and we had a lot to share with each other. I got a little sad when I left this morning. I will miss him.

Cordoba and San Rafael

coming soon...

Last Madrid entry

21 de Mayo Thursday

Yesterday I went to the Museo del Prado after loading up on hostal coffee; turbo- charged hallucinogenic coffee. I make some strong café as some of you know, so I thought I could handle it. Well, I was out of my body and my legs were wobbly while I was cruising the museum. Spanish Art is INTENSE, and so was the entire collection at the Prado incl. the Italian, French, and Flemish works. I was skyrocketed on coffee while viewing a million bloody paintings of Jesus and el Bosco’s trippy versions of carnal misdeeds and penitence in hell to follow…wow, that was like a Gabriel Garcia Marquez novel come to life. I had to sit down and breathe a lot. Don’t misunderstand me. It was amazing and I fell in love with Goya’s "Pinturas Negras", and I was blown away by how big dignitaries can look on horseback (Velasquez). I loved all the paintings of Mary Magdeline, and there was one of Saint Catherine in an Italian/Arabic dress that was fabuloso. The intensity of the work accurately reflects the drama of the time and place, the culture and the religion. The most tranquil painting was by Goya, and it was a small dog’s head resting in a muted ambiguous landscape. I just loved that painting.

I went to Atocha to finally buy my ticket to Cordoba and the lady behind the counter was mean, and I felt bad for her. She had a hardened and stern face that told sad stories. Got the ticket, ate lunch and learned what not to order the hard way…They call a “ensalada de mariscos” an “ ensalada mediteraneo“ here…I was hoping for a greek salad but got all the shellfish (gross) in the world on top of lettuce. Also I got an entire Orange served on a plate for dessert (with a knife and fork to cut it with)…Everything here is cut with a knife and fork, including an orange…The only exception is bread…you can touch that with your fingers. I felt like a savage American my first meal with Christina and had to learn table manners all over again…It’s good practice to use the left hand more, so I’m down. Very cool. Also small beers here are called “canas” – mini-beers and with the olives I’m in heaven…Olives here just taste divine. Oh and “tortillas” here are what we call omelets. Ok, so now you know.

The rest of my day has been spent at cafes or in the hostal trying to plan my entire trip down to morocco. It’s very complex…many different places to stay, different bus and train and ferry tickets to plan/buy and ofcourse, finding out about Salsa and Flamenco in Seville because if I don’t dance soon I may lose my mind. I feel like I have been here for a month already because of how much information I have been processing. I am trying to adapt quickly so that I can relax into my trip more, but there has been so much to plan and learn quickly. I miss my house, my pup, and my peeps but I am happy to be here and once I head south into more open country I think I will be very happy…Andale a Al’Andalus, andalucia…

It's now Thursday morning 21st...
Last night makes a great story and I will revisit Christine’s quote “Life is an adventure, and adventure isn’t always fun.” Describes my night exactly. 3 a.m. 3 drunk guys arrive in my room…the first vision I have is of some guy right in my face in his tighty whiteys, then the puking in the bathroom begins. One guy falls out of his bed and they are continuously laughing for ½ hour pseudo-whispering…I finally got up and asked reception for a different room…The next room was worse…Groups of drunk yelling men walking by the window all night…I felt like I was at a soccer game. Everyone else in that room was farting, snoring, and tossing about restlessly in the beds…Finally I went into the smoking lounge and slept on the sofa for an hour before my alarm went off.

I pray for sleep and paz in Cordoba...

Madrid

Madrid 18, 19, 20 de mayo

Tuesday…second entire day in madrid. Tossed and turned in bed the first night here because madid is 6 hrs ahead and though I had not slept in 40 hours my body is used to getting ready for dance class at the time I was trying to fall asleep…I could actually feel my muscles pulsing and was totally overstimulated and overtired by the journey itself plus the cultural difference ( new city /language orientation) of the first day in madrid…So, I tossed and turned and so did the uber- sweet brazilian guy in my room (are hostals now co-ed?)…….anyhoo, I may have fallen asleep finally by 5 am but I slept until 3pm through my alarm, breakfast, and the cleaning lady. I got a late start but it was obviously needed and I ended up doing more research on the internet for my trip (why didn't i do this in the usa?) …turns out the ferria de cordoba is this week (big city-wide fiesta)…no places to stay but I arranged one couchsurf lodging for Thursday…looks like I will travel on to sevilla the next day…looking for a place in triana and another couchsurf Saturday and Sunday in Sevilla…

Some noteworthy observations: Madid is clean…not sterile by any means but pretty well-kempt..the metro is easy to navigate, the weather is great, the air is relatively clean for a big city. The Madrilenos dress very nice and I havn’t seen many “freaks” around, atleast not as far as dress goes…there are homeless but I havn’t seen many so far…I guess Madrid was established as the Capitol in the 16th century so it isn’t as old as other cities here. King Phillip the ? established it here because it was near his favorite hunting grounds (priorities)…I asked Christine if he is the King Phillip famous for the lisp and she looked at me like I was crazy (again). Apparently this is just an urban legend that Castllian Spanish got the lisp by imitating their king in reverence. (I am now starting to rethink the story that the Merengue limp was an homage to their famous war general…ah!).

I went to Atocha station today to ask about tickets to cordoba and afterwards I took Christine for a drink at lacana bar and we sat outside and had some refreshments and I had my first tortilla de papa…estupendo! This is egg-y potato goodness. We heard Flamenco music coming from the medical school next door (well, it used to be the med school back in the day and next door they stored the cadavours)…We wandered over to see what was happening and the doorman said it was a class..we somehow got to go observe and she ended up letting us take the class (you know I was in heaven)…she led the class in Spanish rumba basics and then moved onto bachata! (Spanish style…with flamenco flavor…box steps and all), the I got to lead Christine in a paso doble!...was really fun and I was dying to dance since I hadn’t in about a week (unless you count disco dancing in the airplane bathroom once every hour on the 8 hr flight to Madrid). I think I was pure entertainment to my poor seatmate on the plane...

May 20…Un milagro…I am up at 8:30 am Madrid time drinking café and getting ready for the Prado (will be thinking of my sis who cried last time we were in Madrid b/c it was closed for renovations)…I got 2 new roommates last night who were here just for the Beyonce! Concert. They just left to go back to school but not before leaving me chocolates on my bed (this trip is getting better!). Also I realized that the beds are just crazy uncomfortable b/c everyone in the room was tossing all night…If u don’t turn over half your body goes numb…Hey, you get what you pay for, hopefully I will adjust. I think I have made it over the initial shock of realization (holy crap...I'm travelling alone all over Europe and I havn't planned ahead of time) and feel better with my Spanish andthe fact that I am living out of bags for the next 3 months...Almost everyone I have told my plans to looks at me like I plan to freedive off the Eiffel tower...(Is it that crazy to travel alone to Fes?)....Christine says "Life is an adventure and adventure isn't always fun"...Still hasn't deterred me...Well, off I go to stare at paintings and art-y things...

2 weeks left in Asheville

I am heading out in 2 weeks for a 3 month trip in Europe...

Wrapping up my season with a Latin dance Showcase to present the year's work of my Dance Companies; Dulcinea women's dance group, Afro-Cuban class presentations of Ochosi, Ogun, Ellegua (Yoruban Orishas) and Rumba, Salseros 828 Student Group Salsa piece "Tribute to Ray Barretto", and a fusion choreography with me and a bellydancer, Lisa Z. We have 4 other groups participating...This will be my last big event and then I pack my bag and drop my puppy off at mom's farm for the summer. And I thought 3 weeks in nYC was a long time to be away from little puppy power...separation anxiety will be acute this time around...

Looking forward to landing in Madrid and starting the journey down to Fes, Morocco for the Sacred World Music Festival. I am going alone to Morocco, and I have been advised that it is far easier to walk around with a male companion than to be a single female roaming the street...Hoping to find a travel companion on this leg of the journey. I have faith that I will cross paths with the right pal. The plan after Fes is travel to Croatia and stay 3 weeks exploring the coast...I have some wierd intuition about Croatia...something great is waiting there..a ver. Back to Granada Spain to stay for a month and study Flamenco (at least that is the plan now...subject to possible change).

Well, I must go finish the end of one book so I can start another and I have reached my time limit on the all-consuming internet world.

Bon nuit.

M-g